Hui-Hang Ancient Trail: The 1,000-Year-Old Merchant Path

Overview

The trail connects Jixi County, Anhui (安徽绩溪) to Lin'an District, Zhejiang (浙江临安), cutting through the Tianmu Mountain range. The path follows an ancient trade route that was actively used from the Song Dynasty (960–1279) through the Republican era (1912–1949). The stone paving you walk on today was laid during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

The route climbs from the Anhui-side trailhead at Jiangnan Village (江南村) to the high pass at Lantian'ao (蓝天凹, ~1,050m) — a saddle in the ridge with panoramic views — then descends into Zhejiang through old-growth forest to Yonglai Village (永来村), where the trail ends at the road.

Why it matters: Huizhou merchants (徽商) were among China's most powerful commercial networks for over 500 years. This trail was their highway — one of the key arteries that connected inland Anhui to coastal Zhejiang. Walking it is walking through Chinese economic history.

Trail Stats

The Route (Anhui → Zhejiang)

The standard direction is west to east (Anhui → Zhejiang). The climb is steeper on the Anhui side but shorter; the Zhejiang descent is longer but gentler.

Section 1: Jiangnan Village → Jiangnan First Pass (江南第一关)

The trail starts at Jiangnan Village (江南村) in Jixi County. After passing through the ticket gate, the path enters the Xiaoyao Gorge (逍遥谷) — a deep river valley with sheer granite walls. The first major landmark is Jiangnan First Pass (江南第一关) — a stone gatehouse built into the cliff, marking the historic checkpoint where officials inspected merchant goods and collected tolls. The inscription reads "江南第一关" — "First Pass of Jiangnan."

Beyond the pass, the trail follows a stone aqueduct carved into the cliff face. The gorge narrows dramatically — the river roars 50m below. This is the most spectacular section of the trail.

Section 2: Jiangnan First Pass → Shisheta (施茶亭)

The trail climbs away from the river, switching back through bamboo and pine forest. The stone paving is remarkably intact — these are the original Ming-era slabs. At Shisheta (施茶亭) — "Tea Charity Pavilion" — you reach a rest point with a small shop (drinks, instant noodles). This was historically where travelers paused for free tea provided by local Buddhist temples. The shop here is seasonal; carry enough water in case it's closed.

Section 3: Shisheta → Lantian'ao (蓝天凹)

The final climb to Lantian'ao (蓝天凹) — "Blue Sky Hollow" — the high point of the trail at ~1,050m. The forest thins as you approach the saddle, opening into mountain grassland. On a clear day, the view spans the entire Tianmu range. This was the traditional overnight stop for merchants — there's a basic guesthouse here, and it's the most popular camping spot on the trail.

Lantian'ao is the psychological halfway point. If you're doing the trail in one day, pause here for lunch. If you're camping, pitch your tent on the grassland and watch the sunset over the Zhejiang side.

Section 4: Lantian'ao → Yonglai Village (永来村) — Trail End

From Lantian'ao, the path descends through forest on the Zhejiang side to Yonglai Village (永来村) — a small farming settlement and the end of the GPX track (13.1 km from the Anhui trailhead). Yonglai already sits on the road network, with a few basic guesthouses (民宿) and bus access, so this is where the walking ends and the journey out begins.

Be aware that this descent is the least scenic stretch of the trail — the highlights (the gorge and the pass) are all behind you, so Lantian'ao-to-Yonglai is essentially just the walk down to the road.

Arriving late? Yonglai is the natural place to overnight — stay in a village guesthouse and head out the next morning rather than rushing the transport.

From Yonglai, the road head at Zhejitian (浙基田) is a short way on, with buses out toward Changhua and Hangzhou (see Returning from Zhejiang Side, below). The township of Qingliangfeng Town (清凉峰镇) is also nearby — reachable by local bus or a ~3–4 km road walk — if you want shops or extra connections.

Getting There

To the Start (Anhui Side — Recommended)

Show this to your taxi driver at Jixi North: 「去江南村，徽杭古道入口」 Qù Jiāngnán Cūn, Huī Háng Gǔdào rùkǒu — "To Jiangnan Village, Hui-Hang Ancient Trail entrance"

Returning from Zhejiang Side (from Yonglai Village)

The GPX ends at Yonglai Village (永来村). From here you walk a short way down to the road, then continue out by bus:

Easiest Exit: Turn Back at Lantian'ao → Jixi (绩溪)

You don't have to cross all the way into Zhejiang. The simplest logistics are to turn around at Lantian'ao (蓝天凹) and return the way you came to the Anhui-side trailhead, then back to Jixi (绩溪). Jixi's high-speed rail station makes the trip back to Hangzhou (or onward) far easier than the Zhejiang-side bus chain. You also lose almost nothing scenically — the descent from Lantian'ao to Yonglai is the dullest part of the trail, so many hikers simply soak up the views at the pass and walk back the way they came.

Alternative: Reverse Direction (Zhejiang → Anhui)

Walking Zhejiang → Anhui is possible but not recommended:

• The Zhejiang-side trailhead (Yonglai / Zhejitian) is harder to reach as a starting point
• You'll finish near Jixi — actually convenient thanks to its HSR station, though you miss arriving back in Hangzhou directly
• The one upside: the longer, gentler Zhejiang-side ascent makes the climb feel a little easier

What to Bring

• Water: 2L minimum. One shop at Shisheta (seasonal). No reliable water on the Zhejiang descent.
• Lunch + snacks. The Shisheta shop sells instant noodles and drinks but shouldn't be your only plan.
• Hiking shoes. The stone path is uneven in sections. Trail runners are okay in dry weather.
• Rain jacket. Mountain weather is unpredictable. The gorge section stays wet.
• Power bank. Dead zones mean your phone searches for signal, draining battery faster.
• Cash: ¥200–300. The ticket office, Shisheta shop, and village buses are cash-only in places.
• Headlamp (if starting late). No lighting on the trail.

Tips & Warnings

Best Time to Go

• April–May: Green mountains, wild azaleas on the ridge. Waterfalls in the gorge are full from spring rain.
• October–November: The best time. Clear skies, autumn colors on the deciduous trees, cool hiking temperatures. Lantian'ao grassland turns golden.
• Avoid July–August: Hot, humid, and thunderstorms can flood the gorge. The stone path becomes treacherously slippery.
• Avoid December–February: Icy stone steps on the Anhui-side climb. The gorge section can freeze.

Safety

• The trail is well-defined and hard to get lost on — there's essentially one path.
• Stone steps in the gorge section are uneven and can be slippery. Watch your footing, especially after rain.
• The gorge has sections with steep drops. Stay on the path.
• No cell signal in the gorge (Sections 1–2) and on parts of the Zhejiang descent. Download the offline map.
• Emergency: call 110 or 120. The nearest hospital is in Jixi town (~1 hr from trailhead).
• Solo hiking is fine on this trail — it's popular enough that you'll see other hikers on weekends. Weekdays are quiet but safe.

Plan B — Weather

If heavy rain is forecast, do NOT do this trail. The gorge can flash-flood. Instead:

• Jixi Old Town (绩溪古城): Explore the historic Huizhou architecture in Jixi town. Well-preserved Ming/Qing streets.
• Longchuan Village (龙川): A picturesque Huizhou-style village with ancestral halls and a river running through it. 20 min from Jixi.

Plan B — Language & Payment

• The ticket office on the Anhui side accepts WeChat/AliPay and cash (¥62 per person). Staff check tickets at several points along the trail, so keep your stub handy. You can also buy the entry ticket online in advance via Trip.com — with some discount online.
• The Shisheta tea shop is cash-only sometimes. Carry small bills.
• Buses on the Zhejiang side are cash-only (exact change preferred).
• At Yonglai Village and in Changhua, there are small restaurants and shops. None will have English menus — point at pictures or use a translation app.

Language emergency card. Show these one at a time:

「我想去徽杭古道，请问怎么去伏岭镇江南村入口？」 Wǒ xiǎng qù Huī Háng Gǔdào, qǐngwèn zěnme qù Fúlǐng Zhèn Jiāngnán Cūn rùkǒu? "I want to go to the Hui-Hang Ancient Trail — how do I get to the Jiangnan Village entrance in Fuling Town?"

「我在走徽杭古道」 Wǒ zài zǒu Huī Háng Gǔdào "I'm walking the Hui-Hang Ancient Trail"

「请问蓝天凹怎么走？」 Qǐngwèn Lántiān'āo zěnme zǒu? "Which way to Lantian'ao?"

「请问永来村怎么走？」 Qǐngwèn Yǒnglái Cūn zěnme zǒu? "Which way to Yonglai Village?"

「我想去昌化」 Wǒ xiǎng qù Chānghuà "I want to go to Changhua"

「我想去杭州」 Wǒ xiǎng qù hangzhou "I want to go to HangZhou"

More Zhejiang Trails

• Jingshan Ancient Trail — Japan's Zen Buddhist origin story, on a Zhejiang mountain
• West Tianmu Mountain — The mountain range this trail crosses
• Zhejiang Hub — All Zhejiang trails