Overview
If you want to touch the “real” Great Wall without the extreme danger of Jiankou or the crowds of Jinshanling, Panlongshan (Coiling Dragon Mountain) is your choice. Located in the historic Gubeikou pass — the “Key to the Northern Capital” — this section is famous for its semi-restored state and high concentration of unique watchtowers.
The War Scars of 1933: Panlongshan was the site of the fierce Battle of the Great Wall (1933) against Japanese invasion. Unlike other tourist sections, the damage here wasn’t caused by time alone — the General Tower (将军楼) still bears the actual bullet holes and shell craters from WWII-era artillery.
Did you know? The 24-Eye Tower (二十四眼楼) once had 24 windows across two floors. During the 1933 battle, the entire top floor was blown off by Japanese shelling, leaving the iconic hollowed-out skeleton you see today.
The Route
The hike is a steady ascent through a scenic valley, followed by a dramatic ridge walk along the wall.
- Gate → General Tower (1.5 km, ~45 min) — A pleasant paved forest trail leads you to the base of the wall. Once you ascend the steps, you arrive at the General Tower (将军楼). Look closely at the exterior brickwork to find WWII bullet holes.
- The Ridge Walk (2.5 km, ~1.5 hrs) — Walk east along the “Dragon’s Back.” This section is semi-restored; the walking surface is safe but the towers are original. You will pass through several unnamed towers before reaching the high point.
- 24-Eye Tower (二十四眼楼) — The eastern terminus of the Panlongshan managed area. This is a massive square tower. From the top, you can see the entire Gubeikou valley and the walls of Wohushan to the west and Jinshanling to the east.
- Return or Traverse — Most hikers loop back to the village from here. Hardcore adventurers can continue east toward Jinshanling (requires an additional 3-4 hours).
- Important: As you cross from Panlongshan into Jinshanling, you will encounter an iron wire fence and a security checkpoint. You will be required to buy/show a separate Jinshanling ticket (¥65) to proceed. If you don’t want to pay for a second ticket, this is your mandatory turnaround point.
Getting There
Panlongshan is the most accessible section by train, making it a favorite for expats living in Beijing.
By Train (Most Recommended)
Take the S5 Huairou–Miyun Line from central Beijing to Gubeikou Station (古北口站), then a 10-minute taxi to the trailhead.
| Direction | Departure | Beijing North (北京北) | Qinghe (清河) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outbound | 06:55 | 06:55 | 07:10 | Morning train — recommended |
| Outbound | 14:19 | 14:19 | 14:34 | Afternoon train (arrive late) |
| Return | 09:49 | ✓ stops | ✓ stops | Morning return |
| Return | 17:20 | ✓ stops | ✓ stops | Afternoon return — best for day hikers |
- Duration: ~2.5 hrs from Beijing North to Gubeikou.
- Fare: ¥12 one way.
- Ticketing: Book via Trip.com (English, no Chinese phone number required). Search station “Beijingbei” (北京北) → “Gubeikou” (古北口). Foreigners must bring their Passport to board.
- Tip: Take the 06:55 outbound → hike → catch the 17:20 return. That gives you a full day on the wall without rushing.
- Local taxis wait at Gubeikou Station for the ~10 min drive to Panlongshan entrance (¥20–30, cash only).
By Public Bus
| Step | Details | Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Bus 980 Express | From Dongzhimen (东直门) to Miyun Bus Station. | ~70 min | ¥15 |
| 2. Local Bus | Transfer to bus Mi 25 (密25) to Gubeikou Town. | ~60 min | ¥10 |
By Taxi / DiDi
| Step | Details | Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| DiDi from Beijing | Set destination to “Panlongshan Great Wall” (蟠龙山长城景区). | ~2 hrs | ¥300–400 |
What to Bring
- Water: minimum 2 litres. No water available on the wall ridge.
- Good shoes. While not as wild as Wohushan, the stairs are original Ming brick and can be slippery when dusty or wet.
- Passport. Mandatory for the S5 train and often checked at the Miyun highway checkpoints.
- Offline Maps. Standard GPS apps (Google Maps, Apple Maps) drift up to 300m off-trail here. Download ChinaTrails’ corrected GPX track for precise navigation.
Tips & Warnings
Best time to go
- Late October: For the “Red Leaf” season. The Gubeikou valley turns vibrant orange and red.
- May: For clear blue skies and blooming apricot trees along the wall.
Safety
- Do not attempt to cross the Military Zone between Panlongshan and Jinshanling unless the path is officially open. There is a small detour through the forest to bypass a restricted area if you are doing the full traverse.
- The 24-Eye Tower is missing its roof; do not climb the walls during high winds or thunderstorms.
Plan B — Payment, Language & Bail-Out
- The S5 train is the best option but runs on a fixed schedule — check return times on Trip.com. If you miss the last train, DiDi from Gubeikou back to Beijing costs ¥350–450.
- Local taxis from Gubeikou station to Panlongshan are cash only (~¥20–30). Carry ¥100+ in cash.
Language emergency card — screenshot and show if you need help:
「我需要帮助 / 我迷路了 / 请帮我叫一辆车回古北口站」 Wǒ xūyào bāngzhù / Wǒ mílù le / Qǐng bāng wǒ jiào yī liàng chē huí Gǔběikǒu Zhàn “I need help / I am lost / Please help me find a car back to Gubeikou Station”
More Beijing Trails
- Wohushan Wild Wall — The wildest segment, 姊妹楼 (Sister Towers), extreme difficulty.
- Jinshanling Section — The most scenic and well-restored segment, cable car available.
- Gubeikou (General Guide) — Everything you need to know about the Gubeikou pass area.